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CASTELLO DI HIMEJI

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Giu 17, 2020 #castello, #giappone, #Himeji, #medioevale

GIAPPONE

Castello di Himeji

Dal 1993 dichiarato dall’UNESCO patrimonio dell’umanità “World Cultural and Heritage Sites”, il castello di Himeji è una delle attrazioni più conosciute e più visitate del Giappone.

E’ il meglio conservato e il più interessante dal punto di vista architettonico fra i pochi castelli medioevali giapponesi che sono giunti integri fino a noi.

Conosciuto anche come “Castello dell’Airone Bianco” (Shirasagi-jo), per la somiglianza della mappa delle mura di cinta con l’immagine di un airone che spicca il volo, il castello di Himeji sorge su un’altura dominante l’omonima città nella prefettura di Hyogo a circa 50 chilometri ad ovest di Osaka.

E’ uno dei pochi castelli giapponesi a non aver subito architettonicamente influenze occidentali o cinesi; è per tutto un prodotto della cultura e dell’ingegno giapponese.

Castello di Himeji

Nel luogo dove oggi sorge il castello, nella prima metà del XIV secolo – precisamente nel 1346 – Akamatsu Sadanori costruì una fortificazione per combattere i locali Shogun. Quando la zona passò sotto il controllo imperiale, nel 1577, la fortificazione venne gestita da Hideyoshi Toyotomi che cominciò la costruzione di un castello con una torre principale di tre piani.

E’ necessario precisare il concetto di castello giapponese che è abbastanza differente da quello che noi siamo soliti dare a questo tipo di costruzione.

Il castello giapponese è cosa diversa rispetto ad un castello europeo, soprattutto per quel che riguarda l’architettura. Anche un osservatore disattento non potrebbe fare a meno di notare, come prima cosa, il colore bianco che contraddistingue la maggior parte dei castelli nipponici.

Avevano essenzialmente un duplice scopo che non li differenzia molto dai loro cugini europei. Innanzitutto venivano costruiti in luoghi strategici – su alture, presso importanti snodi stradali, nei pressi di porti – per poter controllare agevolmente i dintorni. Altro scopo importante per cui venivano costruiti era che essi costituivano la residenza del Signore (Daimyo) di quella determinata zona.

Castello di Himeji

I castelli giapponesi, oltre ad avere le comodità che una residenza signorile richiedeva, dovevano essere anche imprendibili e di tale imponenza da impressionare i nemici. Iinfatti è questo lo scopo delle molte soluzioni architettoniche che caratterizzano queste costruzioni. Le decorazioni dovevano sottolineare l’importanza di chi viveva in quel castello e anche intimidire gli eventuali aggressori.

Con il termine “castello” si intende una serie di costruzioni all’interno di una cinta muraria.

Il cuore del castello è costituito da una torre principale (Daitenshukaku) accompagnata eventualmente da altre torri minori (Shotenshukaku). Le torri, di forma piramidale, erano collegate tra di loro tramite passaggi (wateriyagura). Ai piani inferiori, della torre principale, erano localizzati gli appartamenti del Daimyo: la cucina, le stanze personali, la zona dove riceveva i suoi generali e gli ambasciatori, ecc. I piani superiori, invece, fungevano da posti di controllo su quello che avveniva nelle immediate vicinanze. In periodo di pace fungevano anche da magazzini di armi o di viveri.

I castelli inizialmente erano principalmente costruiti in legno ed è per questo che molti andarono perduti – nel XVI secolo, il periodo d’oro dei castelli in Giappone, ve ne erano quasi 5000 in tutto il paese.

Successivamente, per renderli maggiormente stabili e capaci di resistere alle nuove armi da fuoco, si cominciarono ad usare elementi in muratura.

Attorno al castello c’erano uno o più fossati che, riempiti d’acqua, avevano lo scopo di rallentare e di fiaccare la foga degli assalitori. Altri accorgimenti architettonici erano messi in atto per rendere difficile, se non impossibile, l’azione degli attaccanti. Oltre ai fossati, per esempio, c’erano strette strade che conducevano alla torre centrale. Queste strade non erano lineari e un specie di labirinto mirava a disorientare i nemici, a rallentarne l’avanzata e a decimarli sotto l’azione dei difensori che potevano sparare o lanciare frecce dalle numerose aperture che venivano create lungo le mura delle torri. Inoltre lungo la cinta muraria si aprivano tante piccole porte in modo che gli invasori non potessero entrare in massa nel castello.

Per quanto riguarda il castello di Himeji, esso è costituito da quattro torri di cui una è la torre principale e tre, le più piccole, sono quelle secondarie.

La torre principale è collegata a quelle minori tramite dei corridoi. Nel complesso del castello ci sono inoltre 30 torrette, alcune delle quali comunicanti tra di loro, che avevano la funzione di punti di osservazione e di spostamento veloce e sicuro delle truppe. Altro edificio interessante all’interno del castello è l’Harakiri-Maru dove i samurai andavano per praticarvi il suicidio.

Il Daitenshukaku è composto da sette piani anche se dall’esterno sembra che ce siano cinque, mentre le torri più piccole sono di cinque piani (tre per chi guarda dall’esterno).

La torre centrale poggia su un basamento di pietra, è alto circa 50 metri ed è rafforzato da due colonne di legno che corrono dal basamento fino all’ultimo piano. L’intero complesso, dalle misure di 140 per 125 metri, sorge su due colline e, come abbiamo detto, comprendeva, oltre alle torri, una serie di costruzioni adibite all’immagazzinamento di viveri o di armi.

Tornando all’oggetto dell’articolo, abbiamo visto come, all’inizio del XVII secolo, il castello fosse nelle mani di Hideyoshi Toyotomi che vi costruì una torre principale di tre piani.

Nel 1601 avvenne la famosa battaglia di Seikagahara tra Hideyoshi Toyotomi e Ieyasu Tokugawa per il controllo dell’intero paese. La vittoria arrise a Tokugawa e Toyotomi dovette abbandonare il castello di Himeji che venne affidato ad uno dei più valenti generali di Tokugawa: Ikeda Terumasa.

Terumasa rendendosi conto del grande valore strategico del castello, iniziò i lavori di ampliamento che durarono fino al 1609. A seguito di questi lavori, il castello di Himeji assunse il suo aspetto definitivo che ancora oggi si può ammirare. Il complesso poteva ora rivaleggiare con i grandi castelli di Osaka e di Edo. Con la fine del sistema feudale, nel 1871, il castello di Himeji venne abbandonato e poi venduto all’asta per la cifra di appena 24 yen.

Nel 1879 il complesso passò sotto il controllo del Ministero della Guerra.

Con l’arrivo del XX secolo il castello ebbe una rinascita, almeno come patrimonio storico del Giappone. Cominciarono i lavori di restauro e di consolidamento. Nel 1931 venne designato il complesso tesoro nazionale e l’UNESCO, nel 1993, lo inserì nella lista dei monumenti patrimonio dell’umanità.

Il castello di Himeji non venne mai coinvolto in battaglie e anche durante i bombardamenti americani della seconda guerra mondiale subì solo lievi danni. Questo ci permette di ammirare il castello nella sua forma integra, così come era stato costruito nei primi anni del ‘600.

Una curiosità, per finire.

Data la sua bellezza e la sua ottima condizione è stato spesso usato come location di importanti film tra cui “Ran” di Akira Kurosawa e “L’ultimo Samurai” di Edward Zwick.

Cristiano Suriani

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